Every Copart and IAAI lot lists a title type, and it matters more than the photos. It decides whether you can register the car, insure it, export it, or only use it for parts. Here's what the common ones mean.
The main title types
Clean title
The car was never declared a total loss. Plenty of clean-title cars sell at auction: repos, fleet and rental returns, dealer trade-ins, and theft recoveries. "Clean" doesn't mean undamaged, so still read the damage notes and check the history.
Salvage title (salvage certificate)
An insurer declared the car a total loss, usually because repairs cost more than a set share of its value. In most states you can't register or drive it until it's repaired and passes a state inspection. After that it gets a rebuilt title.
Rebuilt or reconstructed title
A former salvage car that was repaired and passed inspection. It can be registered and driven, but the salvage history stays on the title for good, and resale value is lower.
Non-repairable, certificate of destruction, or junk
The car can never be legally put back on the road in that state. It's for parts or scrap. Some states only let licensed dismantlers or exporters buy these.
Parts only
It's sold for parts. You usually can't title or register it.
Bill of sale (no title)
Some lots come with just a bill of sale, often older cars or cars from states that don't title vehicles past a certain age. Getting a title from a bill of sale depends on your state, and some states make it hard.
Flood, fire and hail brands
Some states add the cause to the title ("salvage – flood"). Flood cars carry the most hidden risk, because water damage to wiring and electronics can show up months later.
Title rules differ by state, so check your state's DMV for what each type means where you'll register the car. Our guide to salvage titles goes deeper on value and insurance.
Why the title on the lot isn't the whole story
The title type on the listing is the current title only. It doesn't tell you:
- If the car was totaled before in another state and later re-titled clean (title washing)
- If it went through earlier auctions with different damage
- Its odometer history, and whether the miles have been rolled back
- How many owners it's had and how it was used (rental, fleet, personal)
A history report shows all of that. For auction cars, run it before you bid, not after you win.
Quick rules before you bid
- Check your state's DMV rules for the title type before bidding, especially for non-repairable and bill-of-sale lots.
- If you're exporting, check the destination country's rules too. Some countries ban salvage imports or certain model years.
- Run the VIN through a history report to see past total losses, auctions and odometer readings.
- Budget for the salvage inspection, rebuilt-title fees and higher insurance if you plan to drive it.
Check a Copart or IAAI lot for $5.99
An AutoVinReveal report shows title brands from every state, accidents, odometer history, and previous auction and total-loss records for $5.99. Bidding on a lot of cars? Packs bring it to $2.45 a report, and dealer plans go lower.
Start from our Copart VIN check or IAAI VIN check.
FAQ
Are all Copart cars salvage?
No. Copart sells plenty of clean-title cars too. Filter by title type on the search page.
Can I drive a salvage title car home from Copart?
Usually not. A salvage car generally can't be registered until it's repaired and inspected. Check your state's rules and plan to tow or trailer it.
Does a rebuilt title hurt resale value?
Yes. Rebuilt-title cars usually sell for well below the same car with a clean history. That's why buyers check the history before paying a clean-title price.